This is a finish that is food safe once it dries, but also builds a film. In the latter half of the video, I show the step by step how to apply this finish to make a well protected cutting board that doesn’t build up a film and doesn’t weep mineral oil like regular boards. Instead, I went an entirely different way and used wood bowl finish. I didn’t use the commonly applied mineral oil finish to this cutting board. After the glue was dry, it was time to flatten the board. This resulted in cutting board that is approximately 16” long x 12” wide x 1-3/4” thick. One strip of maple/oak, and then one of cherry/oak, and so on. I glued up my strips, alternating between types. This gives me a reference surface to ensure that all of my strips are glued up as flat as possible, and in alignment with one another. In essence, it’s a sheet of particle board with an attached wood fence. Check out the video above to see it in action. To help with alignment, I made a quick jig that helps to ensure my squares all line up. But the board will have to be flattened after each glue up in the subsequent steps, and that 1/4” extra will be taken away throughout that process. I turned these pieces up on their edges (end grain facing up and down), giving me a 1-3/4” thick cutting board. Using the table saw, I crosscut my panels into 1-3/4” strips. I want my cutting board to be about 1.5” thick. This step takes our two panels and turns them into an end grain cutting board.
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